Try [link|http://www.cincom.com/scripts/smalltalk.dll/downloads/index.ssp?content=smalltalk|VisualWorks]. It's free for non-commercial use. You do have to register, but, on the plus side, you get a CD image that has real setup in it. CD actually has 2 Smalltalk environments: VisualWorks and ObjectStudio. I only tried VisualWorks. Take your pick.