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New He says he's getting a loud 'click' . .
. . which would indicate the solenoid and it's wiring are working. Dead solenoids don't click and dirty solenoid contacts (rare) are generally overcome with a few clicks.

On the other hand, battery terminals can be good enough for the lights, but not good enough for starter motors - they can really fool you too. I always reseat the terminals if there's a problem like this.

Depending on the wiring scheme - in most cases if it's a terminal contact problem the headlights will go very dim when you get the "click".

Again, many a starter motor has been got going with a couple sharp hammer blows (and I got back from Orange County at night once by periodically hammering on the alternator).
[link|http://www.aaxnet.com|AAx]
New Always carry a penknife for this. Scraping. then put em on.
--
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[link|http://www.iwethey.org/ed_curry|REMEMBER ED CURRY!] @ iwethey

[link|http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=134485&cid=11233230|"Microsoft Security" is an even better oxymoron than "Military Intelligence"]
No matter how much Microsoft supporters whine about how Linux and other operating systems have just as many bugs as their operating systems do, the bottom line is that the serious, gut-wrenching problems happen on Windows, not on Linux, not on Mac OS. -- [link|http://www.eweek.com/article2/0,1759,1622086,00.asp|source]
New All true, but it depends what *kind* of click...
The Gryge deduces:
He says he's getting a loud 'click' . . . . which would indicate the solenoid and it's wiring are working. Dead solenoids don't click and dirty solenoid contacts (rare) are generally overcome with a few clicks.
No, *electrically* dead solenoids don't click, that's right... ("electrically dead" as in, the thin wire that the coil consists of is broke.) But, solenoids -- at least on older Volvos -- can get "stuck" in a purely mechanical way, that doesn't mean that the solenoid itself is "dead".

I think this might be a good place for short explanation of what a solenoid *is*, for those -- like Thane, I suspect -- who aren't quite sure... So: A solenoid, at least as the word is used in automotive parlance (dunno if it's used in other ares too?), is a dual-function device based on an electromagnetic coil. One of its functions is to close an electrical circuit that provides the starter motor with power; what is generally known as a relay. The other, I'd say the solenoid's "main" function, is to mechanically connect the starter motor to the engine. This is done by the simple expedient of a lever which, when pulled forward by the solenoid's electromagnetic coil at its upper end, pushes a little cogwheel that slides on the axle of the starter motor backwards, to mesh with a rim of cogs on the outer edge of the flywheel and thus allowing the starter motor to turn the engine's crankshaft. When you release the ignition/starter key, a spring pulls the little cogwheel back(*) to its original position, thus decoupling the starter motor from the engine; you don't want the starter motor to turn with the engine all the time.

What can go wrong here, in a non-electrical sense that Andrew apparently didn't consider, is that sometimes the cogs won't mesh -- despite being shaped so as to facilitate meshing -- but just slam into each other. This still makes a click, but not the satisfying full kla-chink of a little cogwheel sliding all the way home and gears meshing; it is, rather, a shorter sound, a dull, metallic "clunk" like letting a hammer drop just half an inch onto an anvil that's almost buried in earth.

This doesn't happen all that often, and I don't know if it happens on your or other cars at all; maybe it's limited to just the old Volvos I'm familiar with... But if this is your problem, Thane, then the fix is relatively easy: Turn the engine by other means. A few degrees is all you need; just so the cogs on the outer rim of the flywheel move a fraction of an inch. If you have a manual gearbox, put it in high gear and give the car a little shove; otherwise, try pulling on the alternator-(formerly fan-)belt.

The rest of Andrew's advice, on battery terminals and wiring and so on, I agree fully with.



(*): i.e, on a longitudinally mounted engine, forwards.


   [link|mailto:MyUserId@MyISP.CountryCode|Christian R. Conrad]
(I live in Finland, and my e-mail in-box is at the Saunalahti company.)
Your lies are of Microsoftian Scale and boring to boot. Your 'depression' may be the closest you ever come to recognizing truth: you have no 'inferiority complex', you are inferior - and something inside you recognizes this. - [link|http://z.iwethey.org/forums/render/content/show?contentid=71575|Ashton Brown]
     Dead Volvo - any suggestions? - (inthane-chan) - (41)
         Quick burial, preferably at night. With a flickering lantern - (jake123)
         Sounds like the battery, or maybe the alternator. - (Another Scott)
         If the voltage is up to snuff . . - (Andrew Grygus)
         Battery - (Steve Lowe) - (7)
             Not quite - (inthane-chan) - (6)
                 Then it's the starter, solenoid, or solenoid wiring - (Another Scott) - (3)
                     He says he's getting a loud 'click' . . - (Andrew Grygus) - (2)
                         Always carry a penknife for this. Scraping. then put em on. -NT - (folkert)
                         All true, but it depends what *kind* of click... - (CRConrad)
                 ahh--if I'd only read ALL of your original post... - (Steve Lowe) - (1)
                     No need for the store. - (Andrew Grygus)
         My guess: The solenoid. - (CRConrad)
         No, it has to be the muffler bearings. -NT - (admin) - (4)
             Thane: Try constantly fromaging the bitumogenous spandrels. -NT - (Another Scott) - (3)
                 Oh come on - (jake123) - (2)
                     It'll be OK. - (Another Scott) - (1)
                         Don't forget the negative power couplings... :-) -NT - (static)
         Switch Battery with wife's car - (jbrabeck) - (6)
             OT: ^^^^ Post #200,000! -NT - (Yendor) - (5)
                 And we wasted it on that? (No offense intended ;-) -NT - (drewk) - (4)
                     Ok, so what did I win? -NT - (jbrabeck) - (3)
                         Why an LRPD of course. -NT - (Another Scott) - (1)
                             ICLRPD (new thread) - (Steve Lowe)
                         ICLRPD (new thread) - (Steve Lowe)
         stick with andrew - (boxley)
         So here's where I'm at... - (inthane-chan) - (11)
             Wrenches, Screwdrivers, Voltmeter. - (Another Scott) - (1)
                 since you dont have kids that will lose the tools - (boxley)
             Re: So here's where I'm at... - (Andrew Grygus)
             Metric socket wrenches, plus two inchy ones: 1/2" and 9/16" - (CRConrad) - (7)
                 Concur with "don't buy cheap" Been there. Ain't worth it. -NT - (jbrabeck) - (6)
                     It depends. - (Another Scott) - (5)
                         with kids, get the cheapest set wherever, several times -NT - (boxley)
                         That's why I made the point only in regards to that... - (CRConrad) - (3)
                             Call it by it's correct name - (jbrabeck) - (2)
                                 OK: "Skiftnyckel". HTH! :-) -NT - (CRConrad)
                                 Not to wory about knuckles . . - (Andrew Grygus)
         Suggestions? Yes - easier to think than shotgun, usually. - (Ashton)
         Been a week, what's happened? -NT - (jbrabeck) - (2)
             No time to look at it. - (inthane-chan) - (1)
                 Dead battery. -NT - (inthane-chan)

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