Post #191,158
1/22/05 11:08:40 AM
|
R&R water pump Nissan Sentra 1993 with A/C
how dificult a project is this? Shop wants 425 and the remanned part is 29.00 so assume the major cost is labor. I only have 400 into it so I could get a different car for the price of the repair. Looking under the hood it appears to be a bitch.
regards,
daemon
that way too many Iraqis conceived of free society as little more than a mosh pit with grenades. ANDISHEH NOURAEE
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,162
1/22/05 11:51:28 AM
|
Here's some info from my mechanic friend.
I haven't found anything on the web.
[...]
My mechanic friend in Ohio says according to a CD he has: The going rate for R&R of a water pump on a 1993 Sentra car (not the minivan-thing) is 2.9 hours + maybe 1/2 hour for diagnostics is all it should take. His information says $78 for an Original Equipment water pump. It could add up to $400 depending on their hourly rate and what type of pump they'll use.
It sounds very easy to do according to his information:
Drain radiator, drain block
Remove belts
Remove pump
Use RTV sealant to glue the water pump in so it doesn't leak
Replace belts, install coolant, check for leaks.
Of course, he can't see how easy it is to get ratchets, etc., in there....
It sounds as if you allow plenty of time it should be doable if you've got the tools. HTH. Good luck!
Cheers,
Scott.
|
Post #191,163
1/22/05 12:22:49 PM
|
disconnect and move all the ac lines :(
that way too many Iraqis conceived of free society as little more than a mosh pit with grenades. ANDISHEH NOURAEE
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,164
1/22/05 12:24:49 PM
|
Ooops. :-(
|
Post #191,178
1/22/05 3:14:24 PM
|
a possible work around, 5 gal jug in passenger seat
tubing leading to the overflow connector just below the radiator cap. vacuum initiated by water pump should feed as long as the top of the jug is higher than the radiator cap. Th impellers appear to be working,
regards,
bill
that way too many Iraqis conceived of free society as little more than a mosh pit with grenades. ANDISHEH NOURAEE
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,206
1/22/05 8:12:30 PM
|
Oh, *that's* why you look familiar
You're Mad Max.
===
Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link|http://DocHope.com|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats].
[link|http://DocHope.com|http://DocHope.com]
|
Post #191,248
1/23/05 1:34:13 PM
|
problem with this solution
6.5 feet 3/8 id tubing attached to everflow tube below cap
remodel radiator cap so it sits flat and doesnt impede flow (removed preassure valve.)
sit water jug on ice chest strapped to passenger seat so its all down hill to radiator insert tubing into water jug.
start vehicle and run to normal operating temp
water is leaking at the water pump but instead of pulling water from my jug it blows steam into the jug.
any ideas?
regards,
daemon
Anyone who has passed through the regular gradations of a classical education, and is not made a fool by it, may consider himself as having had a very narrow escape: Samuel Butler
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,249
1/23/05 1:50:39 PM
|
Are you sure you need to open the A/C lines?
Is there any way to loosen the compressor and swing or slide it out of the way without opening the A/C lines? When I talked to my mechanic friend, I mentioned that it had A/C. He didn't mention anything special that needed to be done as a result to get at the pump, but maybe his information was incomplete. But I would think that if the quote you got involved work on the A/C as well that it would have been a much more expensive quote (due to the need for vacuuming out the lines, leak checking, filling with freon, etc.)
Leakage at the hole in the casting means that the shaft bearing and/or bearing seal is leaking. There's no way to fix that leak without removing the pump (plugging the hole will only cause coolant to leak out around the shaft). Removing the thermostat might lessen the pressure at the pump and reduce the leakage slightly, but it'll have other complications (the engine not getting to proper temperature, risk of overheating, etc.). I wouldn't recommend it unless you're desperate. Dumping StopLeak into it isn't something I'd recommend either. :-/
Does the A/C work? Would it be a great loss if it was disabled as a result of your work on the water pump?
I think you'll have to bite the bullet, or put this one down and get another steed.
Luck!
Cheers,
Scott.
|
Post #191,251
1/23/05 2:06:31 PM
|
well you need to open the a/c lines
because there is no way in hades you can get a wrench on the pump with them in the way. The a/c works but even If I yarded it all out at this point I think the overheating has damaged the motor, this fellow just needs to get thru the next few weeks until I can get to the auction with my dealer buddy. Then its partout time.
regards,
daemon
Anyone who has passed through the regular gradations of a classical education, and is not made a fool by it, may consider himself as having had a very narrow escape: Samuel Butler
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,274
1/23/05 10:52:48 PM
|
Is there not a radiator overflow tank?
Like one of [link|http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw/radiator_overflow_tank.html|these]. They're not under pressure. Could you not then add that water to the overflow tank?
Alex
The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt. -- Bertrand Russell
|
Post #191,313
1/24/05 7:39:31 AM
|
thats where I am substituting my 5 gal water jug
Anyone who has passed through the regular gradations of a classical education, and is not made a fool by it, may consider himself as having had a very narrow escape: Samuel Butler
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
Post #191,430
1/24/05 7:29:02 PM
|
Well, this wouldn't likely work.
Most cooling systems now run too hot (at least in spots) to run unpresurized, so it's blowing back (either that or you have a blown head gasket).
I usually try a bottle of Bars Leak. If that doesn't work (and it doesn't more often than does) I bite the bullet and do what needs to be done.
[link|http://www.aaxnet.com|AAx]
|
Post #191,465
1/24/05 11:53:27 PM
|
won't work...as you've discovered.
the catch can principle: water is heated, it expands and some leaves the radiator for the catch can. As it cools, it contracts creating a vaccum, drawing some back into the radiator. If you removed the t-stat and didn't allow the engine to get hot, your plan might've worked for a time.
--
Steve
|
Post #191,223
1/23/05 12:35:59 AM
|
Re: R&R water pump Nissan Sentra 1993 with A/C
One possible gotcha as applies to my Acura (inline-5 not crosswise, as I suppose is the Nissan) - if you have to remove the crankshaft nut to get behind the belts, pulleys to insert the pump:
On mine it's a 180 Ft-lbs nut, needing a special fixture to lock the pulley (without destroying that also expensive part) -- and a pipe over breaker bar OR a HD impact wrench is needed. Tales of how people managed this in home garages.. is definition of A Bitch. Also if you have the good freon in your '93 = I think you have: may be able to make a deal to borrow someone's recycler, reuse and just buy a couple cans for makeup. MUST pump it down well and add lube, etc. Hey.. CARs are a PITA.
So you might want to run down a factory manual; library? - it may need more than brawn + brains. You want to know that before you do something irreversible, right?
(Fortunately all my expensive stuff was done just before I got it)
As to your workaround.. yeah my brainpan tends to look for those Outs too -
IF.. the leakage to outside world is through a small hole in the block == you can see it coming out there.. mayhaps you could do the Tygon tubing route. The hole size should limit the max possible flow, and you may be able to tap the hole for a fitting. (Unclear if adding any back-pressure to that seepage hole, though -- could help force coolant towards the oil side -?- )
Luck
|
Post #191,247
1/23/05 11:29:40 AM
|
the leak is actually from the plug in the water pump
most water pumps have a heat tolerant plug that under extreme heat pops out belching cooling fluid. Cant reach it or I would have a fix. as long as the impellers will turn it will circulate available fluid thru the motor.
regards,
daemon
Anyone who has passed through the regular gradations of a classical education, and is not made a fool by it, may consider himself as having had a very narrow escape: Samuel Butler
clearwater highschool marching band [link|http://www.chstornadoband.org/|http://www.chstornadoband.org/]
|
