I simplify / substitute some ingredients, so he might be more "correct" there, but...
...his method sure seems rather weird to me.
Let's begin with the ingredients:
1) Corn starch?!?
2) Sure, if it weren't so wasteful, I'd also go with egg yolks, but that's throwing away perfectly good food. If I were to get around to it on some occasion that justifies a fancy-ish dessert I could of course make a tiramisu or something like that from the whites first. Since usually I don't, though, two or three whole eggs it is.
3) All pecorino I've ever eaten has been far too salty, and usually a bit too sheepy-sharp. Parmaggiano or Grana Padano works perfectly fine. (BTW, Grana works perfectly fine in all recipes that purport to require Parmaggiano.)
4) Admit it: Both pancetta and guanciale are, besides not being all that easy to get hold of, pretty damn expensive... So bacon, as lightly smoked as possible or preferably not at all, it is. (OK, sure, on that feast day when it's made of yolks and there's Tiramisu for dessert, I might spring for pancetta.)
Much worse, though, his method:
Separate saucepan? Pre-melting the cheese?!? Draining away the water in a colander? Bah!
Fry your meat in a big enough pan to hold the whole dish (I tend to use a wok), and when both the meat and the pasta are done put the pot next to the pan -- I lift both over to the sink, so spillage won't matter and more importantly, to lower the temp -- and transfer the pasta over with tongs or a spaghetti scoop or whatever. It not being perfectly drained matters not a whit, since you're going to want to add some more pasta water anyway, but you can of course shake it a little bit when lifting it out of the pot soa s to not completely drown the dish from the beginning. (I normally lift the pan over to cool off a bit before the pasta is done; you want to start the pasta late enough to be sure not to overcook it anyway, so usually the meat will be done a few minutes before the pasta.)
Mix around a bit to distribute everything and even out the temperature, dump grated cheese, eggs, and pepper onto it (possibly shpe a pit on top for that), mix those roughly on top of the pasta, then mix that sauce into the pasta-meat mix. The cheese will melt and the eggs emulsify with the water from the residual heat. Check consistency, add water from the pasta pot as needed, bam, done. (Add just a little bit more water than at first seems necessary; it will congeal a bit. If you leave it standing out, you may need to stir in a little more water before second helpings.)
Cornstarch, saucepan, cheese-melting, colander... Bah and double-bah!
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Christian R. Conrad
The Man Who Apparently Still Knows Fucking EverythingMail: Same username as at the top left of this post, at
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