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New If it belongs to your car at all . . .
. . that sort of fuse is usually in an in-line holder, in other words sort of plastic lump on a wire. The lump is usually in two halves that lock together with a twist and if they came untwisted the fuse would fall out. They are most common for "add-on" equipment like radios but may be used for standard equipment too.

As for the 250V rating, what matters to a fuse is amps and they have very little resistance so voltage has a very small effect above fractional volts. Most glass fuses of that type are rated 250V regardless of the voltage of the system they're used in.
[link|http://www.aaxnet.com|AAx]
New D'Oh! Of course you're right.
One wouldn't use a fuse rated at 125 V in a 250 V circuit even if the current rating was appropriate. Why? Because when the fuse blows, it must be designed to contain the arc and melted metal. If a fuse is used at a voltage higher than it's designed for, it may not contain the melted metal and the arc when it blows. There's not a problem in using a fuse in a circuit at a lower voltage than it's rated for.

Thanks for the correction.

Cheers,
Scott.
New I poked and poked around under the dash
Didnt see any plastic lumpy twisty looking things on wires.
This is one of those times I miss having a man around the house.
Stupid car electronics.
Follow your MOUSE
     auto fuse - (bionerd) - (6)
         It doesn't sound like a fuse for your truck. - (Another Scott) - (1)
             The AC is blowing hot air - (bionerd)
         If it belongs to your car at all . . . - (Andrew Grygus) - (2)
             D'Oh! Of course you're right. - (Another Scott)
             I poked and poked around under the dash - (bionerd)
         .22 caliber shells make the best fuses... - (ChrisR)

Perhaps if we built this large wooden badger...
172 ms