Post #445,303
1/16/25 11:21:55 AM
1/16/25 11:21:55 AM
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Correct metal to use?
I am constructing my wok station and I want some type of metal panels on the side and top that easily slides in and out to be used as a side splashes. I'd make sure whatever it slides into on the bottom is grease catching and easily removable to drop in the dishwasher.
So I am trying to figure out which, if any, metal is more appropriate.
Thick enough that it won't bend as well as heavy enough that it won't move when I hit it with a wok by accident. It will be approximately 24x30 in in size in a single panel. So at that size not too heavy as well.
Non-Rusting
Able to withstand high heat.
Given that size I can get galvanized steel, not sure how thick and or wobbly, for 25 bucks a side.
Cleanable.
I don't really care if it discolors over time, but I don't want anything growing on it or rusting on it.
Given a particular metal, any idea how I can figure out the stiffness (wobbliness?) versus thickness versus sheet size? Any charts on the web for that?
Other there issues I should be considering?
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Post #445,305
1/16/25 1:42:30 PM
1/16/25 1:42:30 PM
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Unobtanium would be perfect for that.
Personally, I'd try Aluminum, which can be thick enough not to be bendy and still light enough to handle. Of course Titanium would be even better.
The Navy would specify K Monel, second to gold for corrosion resistance. Good luck with working with that stuff though. Can you get your head around a metal harder than nails with the consistency of bubble gum? Breaks and dulls cutting tools without mercy.
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Post #445,306
1/16/25 5:39:27 PM
1/16/25 5:39:27 PM
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Any idea on appropriate thickness for aluminum?
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Post #445,307
1/16/25 7:40:06 PM
1/16/25 7:40:06 PM
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Re: Any idea on appropriate thickness for aluminum?
If modest loading, 1/16 should be fine and meet your weight rigidity specs. If there is very heavy loading I'd go with 1/8. Alloy 6061 is very common, a harder alloy used in construction. 1000 series alloys are softer, but should still be fine for your usage. Other alloys (2000 to 7000 series) are less common and for special uses. Of course, aluminum is going to cost you considerably more than galvanized steel.
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Post #445,309
1/17/25 8:08:31 AM
1/17/25 8:08:31 AM
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6061 sounds familiar. Isn't that the one used in many bike frames?
Not absolute top class, but upper-mid range ones.
Which I suppose would mean it may be overkill for this application. --
Christian R. Conrad
The Man Who Apparently Still Knows Fucking EverythingMail: Same username as at the top left of this post, at iki.fi
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Post #445,310
1/17/25 12:01:43 PM
1/17/25 12:01:43 PM
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Re: 6061 sounds familiar. Isn't that the one used in many bike frames?
Yes 6061 is used for vehicle frames, construction and I'm sure bike frames in the mid-range. I mentioned 6061 because it is so widely available, but mentioned that a 1000 alloy would be quite sufficient for his use.
7000 alloys are used for high end athletic equipment, including bike frames, but it is much more expensive. It is stronger, so a structure can be lighter, but it is very brittle and difficult to weld without cracking. Its primary use is aircraft skins.
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Post #445,312
1/18/25 9:24:47 AM
1/18/25 9:24:47 AM
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There is zero loading
This is 100% vertical slide walls combined with horizontal ceiling. This is something to block the fire and the grease. The upper side might be a couple of pieces to allow for air flow slits between them since I don't want to do any cutting or punching into it.
So which one?
Thanks
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Post #445,314
1/18/25 1:20:50 PM
1/18/25 1:20:50 PM
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Re: There is zero loading
Then all that matters is what aluminum you can get at the lowest price from someone who can shear it to the size you want.
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Post #445,308
1/17/25 12:22:14 AM
1/17/25 12:22:14 AM
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put it outside then no grease catchers, deflectors needed
"Science is the belief in the ignorance of the experts" – Richard Feynman
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