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New I need to install a door
Interior. 78 and 3/4 by 31 and 1/2 at the moment. Top of the steps to be swung into the hallway. There is a solid wooden frame entrance area currently at the top of the steps. There are no hinge cutouts in there.

I want a solid door. This is to keep any crazy Airbnb renter out of my upstairs area while I am calling the police. It might happen. I'll also put in a reinforced side plate along with a deadbolt. Or 2.

We have a recycle/junkyard that has many doors and a few solid ones that might fit. A bit too large, a bit too small, etc. I'd rather pay money for tools than hire someone to do this or buy a correctly size door for way too much money.

If I buy too small I will have to shim it in. I'd have to put various filler strips of wood on the door jamb.

If I buy too large then I have to make it fit.

There is no way I am getting pre-hung.

I need a hand router to be able to cut the hinges in to both the door and the current door jamb. I don't care if it actually clicks into place. As far as the handle /bolt is concerned. A freestanding deadbolt on my side will be just fine.

I want something brand name for the router. I see lots of horrible reviews for the random crap handheld routers. So I expect to spend about a hundred bucks for the unit itself. Plus whatever attachments are required. This looks like a decent kit.

BOSCH PR20EVSNK Colt Installers Kit 5.7 Amp 1 Hp Fixed-Base Variable-Speed Router with 3 Assorted Bases and Edge Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJX202/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V1WW71FE8G566Z0WJCVW?psc=1



Then again, so does this:

Makita RT0701CX3 1-1/4 HP* Compact Router Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FYUMOIW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QR1NJAXRAR5D1PZ2VDR7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Any recommendations?


I need a hand planer. I'm going to have to shave this door down. This looks reasonable.


Bosch PL1632 6.5 Amp Planer, 3-1/4" with BOSCH PA1202 Pair of Woodrazor Tungsten Carbide Planer Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098W35SY5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0C25V01HPQ87MDASWMSD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I will need a hinge jig kit. They look to be anywhere from 20 to 40 bucks. Any specific one I should get?

The hinge kit should come with the router bit. I'll be picking up an assortment of router bits anyway. Any particular assortment you'd recommend?

What else do I need to think about for this?
New bosch or makita both solid
make sure door swings out so it is not easy to kick in. stout hinges for the same reason
"Science is the belief in the ignorance of the experts" – Richard Feynman
New Re: bosch or makita both solid
I know what side the hinges need to be on. Hinges are never to be on the secure side. I've planned the swing.
New Re: bosch or makita both solid
New Great video for morons
I plan on having a couple of these along with kick plates and steel jams on the other side.

https://www.build.com/product/summary/59907?uid=1710452

Not exactly these but that's what Google query came up with for an example. I want two of these on my side without any access from the other side. I will flip these and be done.
New Pay The Man.
You really don't want to do that job. Not in a house that you care about. Not a door that you'll be using every single day. You don't want to end up with a door with uneven gaps or one that won't stay open when you want it to.

Pay a good handyman or a dedicated door installer. Someone who knows how to do it right. Someone who can deal with out-of-square walls and floors, who has all the tools, who will get it done quickly and well.

(The wooden door on my shed is coming apart (outside sheeting has peeled away). I'm going to try to repair it again because the hassle of trying to install a new door in it is too painful (the jamb seems to be smaller than a pre-framed replacement and there's no way I'm messing with the siding and all the rest now). The shed needs lots of other repairs that will have to be done by a professional when the time comes, but I don't want to mess with all the rest of it now...)

If you insist on buying he tools, etc., make sure you get a self-centering drill bit kit. It's critical to get the screws in exactly the right place in the hinge holes, and you need the proper bits to do that. You'll need good clamps, etc., etc.

E.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Bosch-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Assortment-CC2430/dp/B0000TZX1M/

It's really better to pay the man. :-)

My $0.02. Good luck!

Cheers,
Scott.
New I have the self-centering drill bits on the shopping list
This house was built in 1984. And it has not settled badly. I do not give a s*** about the fitting of the door if it ends up that way. That's what the planer is for. This will not be a daily use door. This door will be locked in 99.9% of the time. I will not be running downstairs via the stairway. I have another one being installed on my outside second floor porch along with the steps. This door is a semi-permanent barrier to keep downstairs guests, Airbnb, from ever trying to walk up stairs. Stairs. I am creating a barrier.

Someday I might have a crazy person down there. So someday I need a few minutes of a barrier. While I am calling the police. After they can't get them through the barrier, they might decide to start a fire. These are the considerations.

The difference is $1,500 for a perfectly fit door and a guy to put it in versus $500 for a solid wood used door and the tools to make it fit. Total. The door might be a hundred bucks.


I have no problem paying the guy to put up the steps and do my sliding glass to a real door project. But this project I can do myself and get some tools out of it. I have to route in three hinges. I have to put up a bit of wood, which I already have after tearing out the closet downstairs, to be a door jamb. This is a simple project.

If I need another person to merely hold it, I will announce on nextdoor that I'll pay some guy 50 bucks an hour for 2 hours. But beyond that I should be able to do this myself and get some tools out of the deal.
Expand Edited by crazy April 2, 2022, 08:14:58 AM EDT
New Concur
They are a PITA to install properly, even without the additional potential problems you describe. (Been there, done that. Not planning on doing it again...)
New Re: Pay The Man.
In my 10 x 11 foot entry room, I had a substantial part of the ceiling come crashing down, It was probably put up at least 80 years ago, with inadequate nails.

I thought of buying a drywall lift and repairing it myself, but decided NO!

I left messages with a couple drywall contractors - but they didn't call back. I called a ceiling specialist, but he said they only did whole houses, not just a room, and specialized in replacing popcorn ceilings (I had to Google that).

I found a broader gauge contractor who actually answered the phone. He did a quote on Friday, based on photos I emailed. He said the entire ceiling had to be torn out (which I expected). He promised a crew would start work Monday between 8:00 and 9:00 am.

Fortunately, I had the weekend to strip everything out of the room, which was quite full. Took me over 8 hours to remove a large glass top table, a large expanse of shelving, copy/fax/printer, a heavy cabinet, chairs, and much more. Last, I took down the ceiling light fixture.

At 8:30 am, a Mexican, a large white guy, and a woman showed up and went to work. They packed up and left at 4:00 in the afternoon - the job done to perfection, all smooth and painted. The speed with which they did this work was almost unbelievable. All I had to do was put up the ceiling fixture (never a picnic).

Of course, it'll take me days to get the room back together, Everything has to be cleaned, sorted, and some thing selected not to return (mostly computer oriented stuff). But today I washed the walls and floor, and the big glass top table is back in. I had to unhinge the front door for that, and it cleared the doorway by less than 1/8 inch.

Yes, it cost some bucks, but it sure saved one hell of a lot of hard work, and the job was far better than I could have done.
New Experienced craftsfolk are magical
We had a drywall contractor in at one point who could free-hand drywall mud that didn't need sanding afterwards. He had gone to art school for several years but decided there was more money in drywall.
Regards,
-scott
Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson.
New Clean first pass is so much better than slap it on then clean it up, same with painting
--

Drew
New M is magic with drywall
I watched her take a fall. Down the steps. I tried to catch her but she's bigger than me. I could not stop her. She went head over heels down the steps and through the wall.

She was okay. I had a moment of thinking I had to take her to the hospital. And then I looked at the wall. Holy s***. That wall is gone and I am going to jail. I was on drug court at that time and alcohol was not allowed in my house. That was 10 years in jail for me. If I got caught. We are in a rental and the owner lives next door and she is a picky old lady. I'm going to jail for this for sure.

M bought everything she needed to fix it. She carved out the wall and created a squared off area. She cut a piece of plasterboard in and taped it. She plastered everything as needed. She found matching paint and painted it. It was amazing. You could not see that hole.

Yes, I understand. Professionals are professionals for a reason. M is better.
New I bought a Milwaukee router a few years ago.
Still haven't used it yet.

Milwaukeee 5616-24 - 2-1/4 HP.

I'm a big believer in buying quality tools once.

I'd be suspicious of cheap tools, even from brand names. Too much stuff is made for the lowest possible price in China these days. Note that conglomerates own many of the power tool brands these days (TTI owns Milwauke, licenses Ryobi, Ridgid, etc.; Stanley B&D owns DeWalt, Craftsman, Porter-Cable, etc.)

I've had good luck with Hitachi/Metabo HPT electric tools (cordless drills, hammer drills, etc.).

But, for cutting hinge mortises, a $100 router is probably fine.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Scott.
New Are you sure you need a router for this one job, four hinge cutouts?
I think even with how cheap electric tools have become, a chisel is still cheaper. And probably not much harder to use. A hammer you already have, I assume?
--

   Christian R. Conrad
The Man Who Apparently Still Knows Fucking Everything


Mail: Same username as at the top left of this post, at iki.fi
New Correct
The sum total of the tools required to hang a door are:

Hammer
Chisel
Screwdriver
Knowing how to do it
New I've chiseled before
And I went too far. I lost control. Hammer and chisel is the last moment before you finish. A chisel is nothing to be used as a default. I hate chisels.

Actually my brother, the Renaissance man who does everything correctly, told me I should be using an oscillating tool. I actually have one but I have no idea how to use it. Time to start googling and you tubing.
New Oscillating tools are great, but not magical
Make sure you go sloooooowly. Let the tool do ALL of the work. Don't push on it to force it to go more quickly.

Also, figure out how to brace the tool so it's traveling straight. You can very easily make a complete hash out of whatever you're working on.

Finally, get the right blade for the job. Each type has a different material it will cut.
Regards,
-scott
Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson.
New That's what you're paying for when you pay the man
90% of what you're paying for is knowing the right way and the right tools. The other 10% is the skill with that tool.
--

Drew
New I have time and spare materials
I enjoy working with wood. This learning process is not a bad thing.
New Wood can be unforgiving...
I replaced the hinges to our hall bath with offset ones so my FIL could use it with his walker (it got the door out of the way enough for him to roll in). It turns out that there's apparently a big nail or something from the framing behind the trim in the perfect spot to interfere with one of the longer hinge screws.

I ended up trying to use some plastic hollow-wall anchors to give the screw enough to bite into, but it's still not right (even after putting the "original" hinges back years later).

It's amazing how a "simple" job can be so difficult to do properly...

Good luck!

Cheers,
Scott.
New Yes, it is
That's why I have lots of wood to practice on. I will get it right when it counts.

I anticipate creating a wood shop. I really like working with wood. There is something about creating something with wood that feels really good. Before I create that wood shop I have to collect tools. I have to practice. I have to play. And I will enjoy my play.

Any project I do at this point is for fun.
     I need to install a door - (crazy) - (20)
         bosch or makita both solid - (boxley) - (3)
             Re: bosch or makita both solid - (crazy) - (2)
                 Re: bosch or makita both solid - (pwhysall) - (1)
                     Great video for morons - (crazy)
         Pay The Man. - (Another Scott) - (6)
             I have the self-centering drill bits on the shopping list - (crazy)
             Concur - (scoenye)
             Re: Pay The Man. - (Andrew Grygus) - (3)
                 Experienced craftsfolk are magical - (malraux) - (2)
                     Clean first pass is so much better than slap it on then clean it up, same with painting -NT - (drook) - (1)
                         M is magic with drywall - (crazy)
         I bought a Milwaukee router a few years ago. - (Another Scott)
         Are you sure you need a router for this one job, four hinge cutouts? - (CRConrad) - (7)
             Correct - (pwhysall) - (6)
                 I've chiseled before - (crazy) - (5)
                     Oscillating tools are great, but not magical - (malraux) - (4)
                         That's what you're paying for when you pay the man - (drook) - (3)
                             I have time and spare materials - (crazy) - (2)
                                 Wood can be unforgiving... - (Another Scott) - (1)
                                     Yes, it is - (crazy)

That's RattenSTEEN.
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