Check current rating at +5 V, +12 V.

Post #254,550 by Another Scott 5/5/06 2:57:57 PM Reply	Check current rating at +5 V, +12 V. I assume you're not going to use this with an SLI motherboard, but if you were you'd need to worry about the available current at +12V. Find out if you need dual +12V supplies (presumably for systems that need very high currents). Don't skrimp on the PS. It's one of the most important things in the chassis. I've used Antec and [link\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/home/\|PC Power and Cooling]. PCPC makes wonderful supplies, but they're about 2x the cost of others. The Antec PS in my PC at work has a fan that can be a little noisy at times (sounds like a bearing is a little rough). I may replace the fan one of these days.... In that list, I'd probably go with a $60-70 Antec, but I haven't had time to research them. For that price, I'd seriously consider a new case though for $20-$40 more (installing a new PS can be a pain). HTH a bit. Cheers, Scott.
Post #254,553 by jbrabeck 5/5/06 3:17:48 PM Reply	What he said, seconded. A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. (Herm Albright)
Post #254,557 by drewk 5/5/06 4:16:38 PM Reply	OK, off to do some research, thanks === Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link\|http://DocHope.com\|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats]. [link\|http://DocHope.com\|http://DocHope.com]
Post #258,347 by drewk 6/9/06 8:20:53 PM Reply	Hmm, numbers look wrong The one I'm about to replace: Okia 420ATX +3.3v -- 28A +5v -- 40A +12v -- 18A Couple of places online where people have complained about it. The one on that list: Antec TPII-430 +3.3v -- 28A +5v -- 36A +12v -- 17A Worse numbers than the one I've got. And it's got two bad reviews. Don't know what to think now. Anyone have a specific model recommendation? I don't want to trust random comments online. === Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link\|http://DocHope.com\|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats]. [link\|http://DocHope.com\|http://DocHope.com]
Post #258,350 by Andrew Grygus 6/9/06 9:33:27 PM 6/9/06 9:35:02 PM Reply	Irrelevent. Completely irrelevent. Power supply ratings are completely imaginary and invented by the manufacturer. How many amps you rate your PS at depends on how hot you are OK with it getting and how short a life you will accept. Manufacturers of cheap power supplies are perfectly happy with high temperature and short life, lots of ripple - and blowing your motherboard when they fail. Antec is a reasonably reputable company, so their ratings are pretty conservative. I've been happy with their recent products which I've gone to since my previous supplier only does container loads now. I used an unfamiliar 400W power supply I got with a cabinet I was evaluating in an older machine that had run 5 years on a 250W from my former supplier. The bassard went out in 4 months and took everything but the hard disk with it. Only time I've ever had a failed supply take out anything else. [link\|http://www.aaxnet.com\|AAx] Edited by Andrew Grygus June 9, 2006, 09:35:02 PM EDT Expand All History
Post #258,352 by Another Scott 6/9/06 9:41:52 PM Reply	Here ya go. [link\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S31ATX&view=techspecs\|Silencer 310 ATX] - $49.00 ($34.00 refurbished): +5V @ 28A +12V @ 19A -12V @ 0.8A +3.3V @ 24A +5VSB @ 2A continuous = 310W peak = 350W (Note that the supply above puts out similar power levels to a [link\|http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817153023\|430 W Thermaltake].) [link\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S36ATX&view=techspecs\|Silencer 360 ATX] - $65.00 ($45.00 refurbished): +5V @ 30A +12V @ 21A -12V @ 0.8A +3.3V @ 26A +5VSB @ 2A continuous = 360W peak = 400W [link\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/products/viewproduct.php?show=S47ATX&view=techspecs\|Silencer 470 ATX] - $99.00: +5V @ 32A +12V @ 26A -12V @ 0.8A +3.3V @ 28A +5VSB @ 2A continuous = 470W peak = 520W I don't know why you would need > 30 A at 5 V (though USB apparently uses 5 V). All of the above have a 3 year warranty. (No separate information is given on the refurbished warranty though.) You'd probably do fine with the 360ATX - PCPC gives their power ratings at realistic temperatures: [image\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/technology/myths/psmyths-chart.gif\|0\|Wattage Comparison\|150\|162] Unless you know you need more than the 360ATX provides, I'd get the $45 refurbished supply and see how it goes. Don't assume from the inflated rating of the Okia that you need that much (or that it can actually put out that much power.) If you buy a name-brand supply, you'll probably be fine so I wouldn't sweat it too much. Just remember that if it seems too cheap, it probably is. HTH a bit. Cheers, Scott.
Post #258,355 by Andrew Grygus 6/9/06 9:54:48 PM Reply	Wooooah Nellie! They've got enough returns they're selling refurbs? [link\|http://www.aaxnet.com\|AAx]
Post #258,362 by Another Scott 6/9/06 10:36:27 PM Reply	I was surprised too. But it could be a sign that they're selling a lot of power supplies now, not a sign that their quality has fallen. It wouldn't discourage me, but YMMV. Cheers, Scott.
Post #258,364 by Andrew Grygus 6/9/06 10:51:54 PM Reply	Normally, your returns are repaired . . . . . and placed in your warranty replacement pool (anyone who thinks he's getting a new unit in place of his failed one needs a better grasp of reality). Idealy, the pool should quickly come into balance with returns and it usually does. The only way you should have refurbs to sell is if replacements are being refused. If they are being refused, you have some unhappy customers. Now maybe they have some other explanation, but I'd like to see it audited before I accept it. [link\|http://www.aaxnet.com\|AAx]
Post #258,588 by drewk 6/12/06 12:13:04 PM Reply	Looks like I'll go with the Antec The Silencer refurb supply makes me nervous, and price/performance looks comparable with Antec. Last question before I order: I've got a multi-meter at home. If I wanted to check the old PS, how do I find what to check? (It's already removed. CompUSA and Office Max both said they could test it for me.) I'm assuming if I had the wiring diagram for the output I could just put the probes in the right two leads. Is this layout standardized? Would I be wasting my time, testing it without any load? === Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link\|http://DocHope.com\|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats]. [link\|http://DocHope.com\|http://DocHope.com]
Post #258,610 by Andrew Grygus 6/12/06 2:32:54 PM Reply	Testing power supplies. Just about any motherboard manual will have the pin asignments for the power connector. I have a little load block that when plugged into the connector turns the power supply on and puts a load on it (switchers may not run at all with no load). A realistic test is to put the power supply on the bench plugged into an old motherboard and hard disk. A power switch from an old cabinet can be used to turn it on and off (or just a screwdriver momentarily shorting the power switch pins on the motherboard will do). Use a good multimeter with thin probes and you can just stick the probes down into the connector from the top alongside the wires. Of course voltages don't tell you other important stuff like ripple (some meters will give you a decent ripple reading when set to AC) and noise. The ATX spec can be found on the Internet. [link\|http://www.aaxnet.com\|AAx]
Post #258,617 by Another Scott 6/12/06 3:29:49 PM Reply	PC Power and Cooling has info on PS testing. [link\|http://www.pcpowercooling.com/support/ATX_troubleshoot.htm\|ATX Troubleshooting]. They also sell a $10 tester. HTH. Cheers, Scott.
Post #258,626 by drewk 6/12/06 4:01:46 PM Reply	That tester looks like it only checks two wires And a single green light doesn't seem to tell me much about the quality of power it's putting out. But I'll be that's all the guys at CompUSA and OfficeMax would do, so I might as well try it myself. I'll check my mobo manual tonight. === Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link\|http://DocHope.com\|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats]. [link\|http://DocHope.com\|http://DocHope.com]
Post #258,628 by Andrew Grygus 6/12/06 4:18:14 PM Reply	Yes, if the green light goes on . . . . . it means the power supply has activated the "power OK" signal to tell the motherboard power is ready. It says nothing about voltages actually being present at the connector or about power quality. The black block simply puts sufficient load on the 5v output so the power supply will turn on. [link\|http://www.aaxnet.com\|AAx]
Post #261,586 by drewk 7/13/06 2:22:20 PM Reply	Just ordered it (new thread) Created as new thread #261585 titled [link\|/forums/render/content/show?contentid=261585\|Just ordered it] === Purveyor of Doc Hope's [link\|http://DocHope.com\|fresh-baked dog biscuits and pet treats]. [link\|http://DocHope.com\|http://DocHope.com]

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