Correctly exposing the scene will fix your exposure issues.
I use a simplified version of Ansel Adams' zone system.
Basically, I look at the scene and I guesstimate something that should be +0 exposure on the camera's light meter. Or I look at the sky and go "bright blue? That should be +2" and then I adjust the exposure to suit.
You can shoot wide-angle scenes like you want by stitching, and the results will be better - more pixels, less distortion. Just remember to shoot a sentinel image at each end of the pano (I take pictures of my feet) to help you find the pano images in Lightroom (or whatev).
Anyone whining about the 6D2's dynamic range below ISO800 is basically a pixel-peeping lunatic. Any modern camera has dynamic range that will more than suffice for a keen amateur. The Nikon has "much better" range - as in "much more stuff that you can't spot the difference in anyway". The whole dynamic range conversation only really applies to astrotogs and other long-exp specialists, and they're all nutters. For holiday pictures? 100% completely irrelevant, because every camera body you can buy is far more than good enough for you.
And it only really matters for side-by-side shooting anyway - you shoot what's in front of you with the camera you've got.
Spend less time fretting about gear and more time reading "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Take whatever gear you've got right now to its limits, understand what those limits are and why you need to go beyond them, and then go shopping. Because otherwise, you're just going to keep spending money and you're just going to keep blowing out your skies.
For example: I'm about to dump £500+ into a non-stabilised 200mm zoom for shooting landscape. No, I'm not crazy (or Crazy :D) - I have a specific thing I want to do (shoot foreshortened landscape scenes - panoramas can be stitched if required).
I use a simplified version of Ansel Adams' zone system.
Basically, I look at the scene and I guesstimate something that should be +0 exposure on the camera's light meter. Or I look at the sky and go "bright blue? That should be +2" and then I adjust the exposure to suit.
You can shoot wide-angle scenes like you want by stitching, and the results will be better - more pixels, less distortion. Just remember to shoot a sentinel image at each end of the pano (I take pictures of my feet) to help you find the pano images in Lightroom (or whatev).
Anyone whining about the 6D2's dynamic range below ISO800 is basically a pixel-peeping lunatic. Any modern camera has dynamic range that will more than suffice for a keen amateur. The Nikon has "much better" range - as in "much more stuff that you can't spot the difference in anyway". The whole dynamic range conversation only really applies to astrotogs and other long-exp specialists, and they're all nutters. For holiday pictures? 100% completely irrelevant, because every camera body you can buy is far more than good enough for you.
And it only really matters for side-by-side shooting anyway - you shoot what's in front of you with the camera you've got.
Spend less time fretting about gear and more time reading "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Take whatever gear you've got right now to its limits, understand what those limits are and why you need to go beyond them, and then go shopping. Because otherwise, you're just going to keep spending money and you're just going to keep blowing out your skies.
For example: I'm about to dump £500+ into a non-stabilised 200mm zoom for shooting landscape. No, I'm not crazy (or Crazy :D) - I have a specific thing I want to do (shoot foreshortened landscape scenes - panoramas can be stitched if required).