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New A polariser will not fix your exposure issues
Correctly exposing the scene will fix your exposure issues.

I use a simplified version of Ansel Adams' zone system.

Basically, I look at the scene and I guesstimate something that should be +0 exposure on the camera's light meter. Or I look at the sky and go "bright blue? That should be +2" and then I adjust the exposure to suit.

You can shoot wide-angle scenes like you want by stitching, and the results will be better - more pixels, less distortion. Just remember to shoot a sentinel image at each end of the pano (I take pictures of my feet) to help you find the pano images in Lightroom (or whatev).

Anyone whining about the 6D2's dynamic range below ISO800 is basically a pixel-peeping lunatic. Any modern camera has dynamic range that will more than suffice for a keen amateur. The Nikon has "much better" range - as in "much more stuff that you can't spot the difference in anyway". The whole dynamic range conversation only really applies to astrotogs and other long-exp specialists, and they're all nutters. For holiday pictures? 100% completely irrelevant, because every camera body you can buy is far more than good enough for you.

And it only really matters for side-by-side shooting anyway - you shoot what's in front of you with the camera you've got.

Spend less time fretting about gear and more time reading "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Take whatever gear you've got right now to its limits, understand what those limits are and why you need to go beyond them, and then go shopping. Because otherwise, you're just going to keep spending money and you're just going to keep blowing out your skies.

For example: I'm about to dump £500+ into a non-stabilised 200mm zoom for shooting landscape. No, I'm not crazy (or Crazy :D) - I have a specific thing I want to do (shoot foreshortened landscape scenes - panoramas can be stitched if required).
New We've talked about some of this before.
Mountains are problematic (for me) if the sky isn't just right.

E.g. a polarizer would have certainly helped with this:


and this:


Yeah, I know a good photographer can take great pictures with any camera - even a pinhole camera. ;-) And Google probably has better photos for places we're going than I'll be able to take. But I like taking pictures, and I want something that will work well for a while and not be an annoyance. And not cost a (relative) fortune.

Yeah, the 6D2 is a great camera and the dynamic range issues aren't really an issue 99% of the time. This example from DPReview has extreme push of the shadows (look at the dog's face and the man's hand when zoomed) when better exposure at the beginning (probably) would have made all the difference. Or taking the picture a few minutes earlier. But at normal sizes, it still looks like a very nice photo.

Real world impact

If you shoot JPEG, you'll never notice any of this, since the differences occur beyond the ~8.3EV or so that tend to be incorporated into a typical image. Similarly, at higher ISO settings, amplification overcomes the electronic noise, so you see the camera begin to out-perform the 80D and then close the gap with the D750, just as Bill's chart suggests.

However, it means if you're processing from Raw at low ISOs, you have much less flexibility in terms of what you can do with the file than we'd expect from a modern camera. Almost as soon as you start to push the image or pull detail out of the shadows, you risk hitting the camera's electronic noise floor and hence you won't see the advantage over the smaller sensor 80D that you might reasonably expect.

Adding to the problem is Canon's metering system, which tends to underexpose images when there's strong back-light. If the metering sensor were high resolution or advanced enough to detect faces, one might expect proper exposures for human subjects even in backlit shots; however, we've found the low resolution metering sensor in the 6D Mark II to be often incapable of detecting - and properly exposing for - faces. That means that backlit shots will be underexposed (unless you intervene), and you'll have limited ability to recover these underexposed shots because of the sensor's poor performance.

(Emphasis added.)

If one knows how it behaves, one can compensate.


New Re: We've talked about some of this before.
There's nothing wrong with that first shot. It's exposed well, composed nicely; a very pleasing natural shot.

Why do you think a polariser would have helped the second one? You'd still have a featureless sky, but it'd be grey rather than white, and the foreground would be underexposed. It needs a soft graduated ND filter. Or shoot the whole thing 1 or 2 stops under, and push it back up in post. And the biggest problem is not the exposure, it's that the picture isn't even remotely straight.

And that DPReview picture is ridiculous. F/9 at 1/200th at ISO 100? You'd literally never shoot like that in real life - at the very least you'd have a speedlite to provide fill flash. Are you currently struggling with a lack of DR?

If you just want to buy more gear, buy more gear. But the thing that's going to improve your photographs isn't more gear, it's more knowledge and more practice about the fundamentals of tekkin' pickchars.
     I'm getting the new camera itchy bug again... - (Another Scott) - (33)
         Overkill! :) -NT - (a6l6e6x)
         Canon M5 with 15-150 lens? M6 with 15-150 lens? Peter? - (Another Scott) - (31)
             Zooks. This is turning into a nightmare... - (Another Scott) - (30)
                 have a semi pro photog at work - (boxley) - (2)
                     Yeah, but Pros get paid! :-) Thanks. -NT - (Another Scott)
                     That's only true for medium format - (pwhysall)
                 Given the D's are in play and Sony's in the picture too... - (scoenye) - (4)
                     Thanks. - (Another Scott) - (2)
                         Things in that class age well - (scoenye) - (1)
                             Yup. Good points. - (Another Scott)
                     Sony cameras are technical marvels - (pwhysall)
                 Can't do it tonight. We'll see if it makes sense in the future. - (Another Scott)
                 You only need two lenses for travel toggery. - (pwhysall) - (4)
                     Thanks for all the info. - (Another Scott) - (3)
                         A polariser will not fix your exposure issues - (pwhysall) - (2)
                             We've talked about some of this before. - (Another Scott) - (1)
                                 Re: We've talked about some of this before. - (pwhysall)
                 Still can't do it. - (Another Scott) - (15)
                     Or $20-odd for the thing you actually need - (pwhysall) - (14)
                         I got a copy on your recommendation a few years ago. - (Another Scott) - (13)
                             The camera is not what limits you - (pwhysall) - (12)
                                 Thanks.. - (Ashton) - (4)
                                     ALICE? - (Another Scott)
                                     You do know tha Ansel Adams used dodging and burning? - (a6l6e6x) - (2)
                                         Knew dat, but tmi is upon us all :-) - (Ashton)
                                         He had to - (pwhysall)
                                 Thanks. - (Another Scott) - (6)
                                     Have fun! -NT - (scoenye)
                                     Enjoy it - (pwhysall) - (2)
                                         I'll do my best. - (Another Scott) - (1)
                                             Monopods aren't any good for long exps - (pwhysall)
                                     For what it's worth, Consumer Reports just "check rated" Canon PowerShot G3X. - (a6l6e6x) - (1)
                                         Thanks. - (Another Scott)

Please do not spit too loud, thank you.
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