Post #33,320
3/24/02 10:58:53 PM
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Well, I've drilled plenty of 'em
I build all our office furniture because it has to be fit to space in the most efficient shape - we can't afford the space consumption of standard furniture. It takes about four hours to do a complete desk, including paint, surfacing and dressing the edges - if you're in a hurry.
I use a hole saw with a 2" cup (just big enough to squeeze the small end of a printer cable through) it works fine. I've never had break-out problems - always gone through clean (but then I buy premium quality particle board, 3/4" thick - (heavier'n hell (and it's hard to carry a 4X8 because of the shape))). Many furniture makers buy cheapest stuff - real soft, especially in the middle - so they can use faster feeds and speeds without burning the material).
Biggest issue is the strength of drill motors. Particle board is tough stuff with resin binder, so the cup has to turn rather slowly or you'll burn off the teeth, and at that diameter it's got a lot of leverage, so it takes power. My old orange plastic shell 3/8 B&D did about 20 of these in it's 30 year lifetime but it would be smoking by time it got through, and the last one pretty much killed it. I guess 30 years of rough treatment without maintenance is acceptable though.
My new (green shell) B&D is a bit heftier and the speed control is better, but it has a keyless chuck, which is sometimes a problem with rough work. I wouldn't want to try this with my Makita - It's done some heavy work, but I think a 2" hole saw'd be hard on those expensive batteries.
By the way - that drill in the center should be dead straight and centered - though a bit of wobble probably won't cause too much problem once the cup teeth bite.
[link|http://www.aaxnet.com|AAx]
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Post #33,321
3/24/02 11:21:00 PM
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Hardware
The drill's a Makita corded drill, 3/8", variable speed to 2100 RPM. I may give that hole saw a shot, though the wobble worries me.
The issue's far less the drill wear and far more the prospect of getting halfway through the work and shredding it. I'm looking for ways to ensure a clean cut. Granted, it's hidden faces, but I'd still prefer clean work to dirty.
--
Karsten M. Self [link|mailto:kmself@ix.netcom.com|kmself@ix.netcom.com]
[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/]]
What part of "gestalt" don't you understand?
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Post #33,324
3/24/02 11:58:52 PM
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Well, your best bet . .
. . if you're going through into free air is to lighten up the pressure (a lot) as you get near done. If you can buck it with a board, though, that's ideal.
Of course, if you have free acces from both sides, you can drill through from one side until the center drill breaks through, then insert from the other side. That way you don't have breakthrough at all.
If the back side is a hard surface like Formica, you've got more of a problem. That stuff can get pulled lose easily and shatter. In that case you'd better back with a board if at all possible. Preferably go from both sides (see above).
Rocking the cup in a circular motion as you go through might help, and help keep the saw kerf as wide as possible to prevent binding, but that big cup's not going to give you much freedom. Hopefully your hole saw has well staggered teeth.
Remember, keep that cup turning slow (a few hundred RPM). Do withdraw the cup frequently to cool it and remove sawdust if the going is tough. You don't want to see any smoke.
If all goes wrong and the work is ruined, you can console yourself by downloading a [link|http://www.makitaope.com/html/missmakitapage.asp|Miss Makita 2002] screen saver (well, actually, I don't mind the stuffed boobs, I can deal with that, but she's just too narrow accross the hips for my taste - kind of a turn-off (unfortunately
[link|http://www.ridgid.com/calendar.html|Rigid Tools] doesn't post screen savers or samples of their famous calendar, you have to fork up $8 right up front)).
[link|http://www.aaxnet.com|AAx]
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Post #33,327
3/25/02 2:35:28 AM
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Another tip:
Use masking or gaffers tape (not duct tape, too much icky residue) to cover the area you're cutting. This along with a back board as previously suggested should minimize fraying/splintering.
Test the tape on an inconspicuous area first, though. Some of those finishes can be pulled off with it.
The hole saw should be straight and true, particularly the center shaft/drill bit.
-----
Steve
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Post #33,330
3/25/02 3:21:24 AM
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Roll tape
Yeah, I picked up some wide masking tape Saturday night for the task.
I'm thinking best bet's going to be pulling the units apart, getting the panelling on top of a good bit of scrap wood, and punching through that. With some scrap panelling to test on first.
That, and replacing the saw with a straight-shafted one.
Makita looks like they're having a pretty good year....
--
Karsten M. Self [link|mailto:kmself@ix.netcom.com|kmself@ix.netcom.com]
[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/]]
What part of "gestalt" don't you understand?
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Post #33,332
3/25/02 3:26:47 AM
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Y.M, "Silence... Camera... Action!", Oscar? :-)
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Post #33,418
3/25/02 7:51:50 PM
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"Most penetrating role in a particle-board feature" ...
On and on and on and on,
and on and on and on goes John.
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Post #33,434
3/25/02 9:57:56 PM
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... and you thought the Oscar's were boring...
"All around me are nothing but fakes
Come with me on the biggest fake of all!"
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Post #33,448
3/26/02 12:36:59 AM
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...not much plot, but the storyboard held together well....
--
Karsten M. Self [link|mailto:kmself@ix.netcom.com|kmself@ix.netcom.com]
[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|[link|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/|http://kmself.ix.netcom.com/]]
What part of "gestalt" don't you understand?
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Post #33,452
3/26/02 1:52:57 AM
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"..despite a rather wooden peformance, nail-biting action"
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Post #33,466
3/26/02 10:18:01 AM
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..."OW!" she cried, as the drill bit into her...
-YendorMike
Real programmers use "vi a.out".
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Post #33,554
3/26/02 10:29:46 PM
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Opening line from the "IWeThey HoleSaw Masacreee"?
A classic horror flick.
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Post #33,557
3/26/02 10:58:17 PM
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with a sub-title 'IWeThey takes a nasty turn...'
On and on and on and on,
and on and on and on goes John.
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Post #33,567
3/27/02 2:43:27 AM
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Last I saw, she was doing a bit part ...
... in some lumbering action flick. That's the problem with the whole Hollywood machine. It'll chew you up and spit you out.
--
Chris Altmann
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Post #33,659
3/27/02 6:25:19 PM
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I believe the novel was pulped, too...
On and on and on and on,
and on and on and on goes John.
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Post #33,469
3/26/02 10:49:18 AM
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... some thought the piece a bit heavy ...
===
I can't be a Democrat because I like to spend the money I make.
I can't be a Republican because I like to spend the money I make on drugs and whores.
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Post #33,511
3/26/02 3:35:41 PM
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... hammered by critics. The director had a screw loose...
Regards,
-scott anderson
"Welcome to Rivendell, Mr. Anderson..."
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Post #33,534
3/26/02 5:26:31 PM
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The Plot splinters too much
TAM ARIS QUAM ARMIPOTENS
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Post #33,678
3/27/02 11:13:32 PM
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So how'd it come out?
The critics are obviously dying to get a peek at it. :)
-----
Steve
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Post #33,680
3/28/02 12:11:19 AM
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Waiting for the weekend
Pretty slammed at work all week, I'll get another stab at it Sat/Sun, depending.
--
Karsten M. Self [link|mailto:kmself@ix.netcom.com|kmself@ix.netcom.com]
[link|http://kmself.home.netcom.com/|[link|http://kmself.home.netcom.com/|http://kmself.home.netcom.com/]]
What part of "gestalt" don't you understand?
Keep software free. Oppose the CBDTPA. Kill S.2048 dead.
[link|http://www.eff.org/alerts/20020322_eff_cbdtpa_alert.html|[link|http://www.eff.org/alerts/20020322_eff_cbdtpa_alert.html|http://www.eff.org/...a_alert.html]]
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Post #33,685
3/28/02 3:30:49 AM
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'Nother bit story
Especially for thin, splinterable materials - as multiple thin-plies:
Forstner bits ie. those with this bit shape:
|\ufffd\ufffd\ufffd|
~v~
with a small point and sharp outer edges, also with a narrow cutting 'vee'.
Natch it's also great for blind holes, as for a peg. Dunno about 2" dia. ones, but some flat bits with this shape come in pretty large dia. - needing pretty slow speeds to swing that large radius. I'm not sure how well these compensate for the awful physical composition of particle board though (?)
In normal wood these produce the cleanest holes I've seen. They are also difficult to resharpen, so best reserved for quality work. The flat ones are easier to sharpen, if you have assorted round-ish stones and some patience.
Cheers,
Ashton
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